Some 7,000 varieties grow around the world, and experimenting with heirlooms yields intriguingly different flavor profiles. Why the resurgence? Several reasons: Applejack’s rediscovery rose in tandem with the cider renaissance, which has introduced a new generation of drinkers to the complex flavors of heirloom apples. Today, apple brandy is back in the good graces of bartenders and home enthusiasts, with numerous craft distillers entering the field. That fell to just one, in Virginia, during the 1970s, and even that had to shutter for a decade because their existing inventory more than satisfied anemic market demand. At its peak, Laird’s had three distilleries. While that’s not precisely true-Germain-Robin started making an excellent version in California in 1991-it is remarkable how much extraordinary apple brandy is newly available these days, especially given the depths to which it once sank.
“Well, now there is a category,” she said. I was met with a long silence, followed by a loud laugh. and ninth-generation descendent of the founder, to ask how she thought the apple brandy category had evolved over the past decade. I recently rang up Lisa Laird Dunn, vice president at Laird & Co. The grandfather of apple brandy is, without doubt, Laird & Co., which was founded in 1780 in New Jersey and has been producing brandy from apples ever since. (While under TTB regulation apple brandy and applejack are interchangeable, i n some regions applejack still refers to an apple spirit made though freeze distillation.) In the colonies and early republic, it could be found pretty much anywhere one found apple trees, which meant pretty much everywhere except the deep South and upper plains. Some of these had “apple” on the label even though they hadn’t come within a hundred miles of an orchard.īut actual American apple brandy, made from actual American apples-sometimes called “applejack”-is among the nation’s foundational spirits. Further adding to the confusion, apple-flavored, sweetened liqueurs made their way on to shelves at some point.
French Calvados follows certain strictures-two weeks of fermentation, six months sitting on the lees to enhance flavors, distillation in alembic stills. American brandy makers could employ a variety of production methods-and then tweak the final result by adding small amounts of non-brandy sweeteners and coloring agents. here are a few other tips for making better cocktails at home.Somewhere in the past century, American apple brandy came to be seen as the gap-toothed, barefoot country cousin of a more refined French apple brandy, called Calvados, which projected a more lace collar and cravat sensibility. Don’t forget to freeze your glass for a little extra chill. This is totally bartender’s choice but it’s a smooth enough cocktail that doesn’t need to steep in ice. Traditionally the gold rush is served on the rocks or with a giant ice cube, but I’m opting for up in a chilled coupe. Do NOT try to use any dried spice of any sort in your pantry. There is no substitute for fresh rosemary. I will say though it’s an awesome spirit to add to an old fashioned along with several other whiskey cocktails. The Applejack adds a nice touch, but you can skip it if you don’t want or have any on hand. Paired with fresh rosemary, my gold rush is a refreshing cocktail with fall vibes. I decided to spice up the gold rush with fresh rosemary and Applejack brandy-a flavored brandy with notes of apple and cinnamon. It’s a solid imbibe but misses some of the natural botanicals that gin adds to a bee’s knees-making it a bit more complex and interesting.
Nearly a whiskey clone of the classic bee’s knees cocktail. The gold rush cocktail is a simple classic made with whiskey, honey syrup (water and honey), and fresh lemon juice. I ended up basically making a whiskey bee’s knees or the gold rush cocktail with a few twists. Instead, I had to improvise and use whiskey instead. I use it in so many cocktails you’d think I’d learn by now to stock up. I phenomenon not infrequent in this household.
I was craving a bee’s knees last night and per usual I was all out of GIN.
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